Jason, Just checking back on this to see if you’ve made any progress? Troubleshooting on modern radios can be challenging, especially when the circuit components you need to test are on the bottom side of the board. Below are a few suggestions. Apologies if I’m stating something you already know. 1) Boards can usually be powered outside the chassis but you need to be very careful with interconnection cables, especially the ribbon cables. If you do this, keep the radio turned off until just before you are going to test and don’t leave it on for long. Heat will increase quickly on components that need sinking, like regulators and, especially, the audio output amp. 2) A safer solution may be to remove the board and carefully solder a thin insulated wire at the test location, then replace the board and use the wire as your test location. This is really only practical for one or two tests. If you are stepping through multiple test points or stages it becomes annoyingly tedious. 3) Another option is to remove the board and use your VOM to test continuity and components. If you know where the circuit is working and where it’s not, testing components that are logically associated with the circuit can be effective. For instance, test D1116, Q1127 and R1616, then test for continuity between components as shown in the schematic. If all tests good then it’s a pretty safe bet that if the relay is not switching, it’s probably bad. One note on testing Q1127, that transistor has integrated biasing resistors so you’ll need to check the transistor’s data sheet to determine the resistor values and factor those into your measurements. 4) Final suggestion is to confirm the relay switching before you pull anything apart. You can often do this by carefully placing the blade of a screwdriver on the plastic cover of the relay and place your ear on the screwdriver handle, then key the mic. The screwdriver will help transmit the sound to your ear, making it much easier to here the relay click. If you hear the click then it’s receiving it’s switching voltage, indicating no issues with the circuitry and likely a bad relay contact. Of course, this method will only confirm that the relay is switching so if its coil is opened, or solenoid jammed, it won’t be very helpful.